Yes, the snow is fake, no, of course it wasn’t filmed in December, and once again viewers are forced to endure the annoying Gennaro Contaldo. But when it comes to Christmas cooking, Jamie Oliver is the man you’d trust with your bird every time.
“Christmas should be fun for everyone so don’t be a slave to the kitchen”, he says at the start. He might also have added “don’t be a martyr and try and do it all yourself, then collapse in a heap of simmering resentment afterwards”. Christmas dinner has become such a focal point of the festivities, with enormous pressure to keep every person round the table satisfied, it’s no wonder so many cooks dread the thought of it.
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Jamie’s Christmas With Bells On offers a combination of get-ahead recipes for Christmas Eve, fun stuff to do with the kids, and an alternative to a whole roast turkey for those who aren’t feeding the five thousand (or have a smaller oven). Some may think it’s a bit of a cheat to include recipes from previous Christmas shows, but if the pressure’s on to produce a perfect turkey, roast potatoes or gravy, then that’s what cooks want to see.
There are “Jamie-isms” aplenty, from “wazzing up” breadcrumbs, “getting jiggy” with mushrooms, gravy that’s “a tray full of festive get-ahead love”, and mixing chocolate and sugar together with a spot of "inter-wingling". His Essex-boy style might not be to everyone’s taste, but there’s no doubting his enthusiasm and determination to take the fear factor out of preparing the biggest meal of the year.
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Whether all the people gathered to enjoy the festivities are actual friends and family is debatable, but there is a lovely scene with Jamie and his mum Sally preparing Jamaican ham hocks. You can almost hear her thinking “please don’t say anything too embarrassing”, but apart from calling her “Tiger” (which he calls any woman over 40 she gets off quite lightly) and they make a sweet double act.
It’s a safe bet that Jamie’s dad Trevor wouldn’t be caught dead in a ridiculous turkey costume, but as always Jamie’s mentor Gennaro can be relied upon to do whatever Jamie wants to get his moment on camera. The sight of the Italian chef attempting to climb over a gate to get some eggs, with Jamie shouting “You’ve got a lovely bum Mr Turkey” is frankly embarrassing. As is the sight of a tipsy Santa weaving about waving a champagne bottle – any chance you can rein in these bits of self-indulgence, Channel 4?
Overall, however, Jamie’s Christmas With Bells On (Tuesday, 9pm, Channel 4) has an excellent assortment of recipes to see everyone through the festive season. Good job Jamie, but please, no more Gennaro. With or without the turkey suit.
Arlene Kelly - Born and raised in a small prairie town, by the time I graduated high school I decided I’d had enough of Manitoba winters and headed ...
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